Pictures are here. Brian has a lot more because I was driving, but he hasn’t put them up yet.
We were up bright and early to catch the 7:50am bus and to meet up with Fredrico who would be joining us for the drive. It was already starting off cold, windy and raining. I had on a shirt, my flannel shirt, my fleece jacket and my waterproof rain shell, and I was still cold at times. We got on the bus to Portree, the largest ‘city’ on Skye. When we arrived, we called the car hire company who said they’d pick us up in a silver car in about 10 minutes. 30 minutes and a phone call later, a small blue car came to pick us up. For £35/day, the car was certainly not cheap, but it was split three ways.
Next was the fun part - Elwing driving. For those of you that don’t know, Scotland drives on the left side of the road, and they usually drive a manual transmission. I haven’t driven a stick shift for 3-4 years, and even then, I didn’t drive them much, and not very well. Imagine me having to re-learn a stick shift with the stick on the left, and driving on the left. All I can say is that I’m glad the clutch, brake and gas are all in the US expected locations, and the majority of Skye roads are relatively flat, without too many cars.
Now take that image, and put me on a single track (one-lane) road with passing places. You can see why Brian appears to be a few years older now. Actually, the car was pretty forgiving and easy to drive, and I never forgot which side of the road to drive on, but I did forget that left turns are not across traffic and I could have just yielded (multiple times). Also, going 60 mph (the prevailing speed limit) on a two lane road (or even some one lane roads) - not happening - so I had to let a lot of people pass me.
The first stop was to fill up the gas tank at a petrol station. £20 (~$40) later, we have 3/4 a tank of gas, and we hope this will last through the day. The second stop was the Talisker Distillery near Carbost - the only distillery on Skye. It required our first trip down a single track road, but we made it and saw how a larger distillery produced its whiskey. Talisker has its grain malted at Glen Ord, and then transported to the island. Many of its casks are also warehoused on the mainland to age. The tour was excellent, and we got a coupon for £3 off a 70cl bottle, but Brian chose to pass on that.
The next stop was the tourist office in Dunvegan to get a better map for driving since we were going to be on some pretty small roads. A little bit further up the road, we stopped at Dunvegan Castle, home of the MacLeods. The cafe provided lunch for Fredrico, and cover for us to eat our packed sandwiches out of the rain. In the castle was a lot of old portraits, and some of the original keep - like the “fairy tower”, where the stairs were built into the walls. There was also the horn which all clan chiefs must be able to drink from (about half a gallon of claret) and not ’set down nor fall down’. Also, the Dunvegan Cup made out of wood and placed at the early 1100-1200 time frame. The castle was interesting, but I think the best part was the view over the loch from the castle. Dunvegan is considered the most romantic castle in Scotland, and I think that’s more from the gardens than the castle. The gardens were amazing, and had waterfalls and streams. We probably would have spent more time in the gardens, but it was still raining.
From the castle, we drove along many single-track roads to Neist Point. There’s a lighthouse at Neist Point on the very western edge of Skye. The prettiest part were the sheer cliff faces that rose from the seas. Because of the rain, there were a lot of waterfalls off these cliffs. We got completely drenched, but took a lot of pictures.
We made our harrowing way back to the main road, where we headed for Uig and the Trotternish penninsula. I was planning on stopping for gas at Uig, because we were back down to 1/4 tank, but the road through Uig didn’t have a petrol station. We got up the steep switchbacks and then I decided to go back down to find petrol. So I turned around- on a one lane road. The Uig pier had a petrol station, and I just filled the tank with about £26 of petrol. For those keeping count, we just spent about $90 on gas!
Back up the switchback and on the single track road to the Kilmuir cemetery and the Flora MacDonald memorial. Flora MacDonald helped Bonnie Prince Charlie escape Scotland to France to lead the Jacobite Uprising.
Duntulm castle was the next planned stop, but we could see the ruins from the road. We missed the turnoff, and it was raining, so we just looked.
The next stop was Kilt Rock and Mealt Falls. This was a short stop at the top of a sheer cliff, where it was *very* cold and rainy. It was an amazing view of the falls and the ocean hitting against the rocks and cliff face. Kilt Rock looks like a kilt as it rises from the water. Mealt falls were swollen and powerful. I would have liked to spend more time there, but it was cold, and the rain was horizontal, so it was a quick picture stop. On a clear day, you’re supposed to be able to see the Outer Hebrides.
We had also planned on stopping at the old man of Storr, but it was completely covered in mist, and we would have gotten soaked trying to hike to it. From there, we found sheep on the road, and a pretty long cattle caravan (without a herder/owner) using the road. Brian got some amusing video of it.
A direct drive from Portree to Kyleakin commenced - about 45 miles. We dropped off Fredrico and then decided to go to dinner at the Indian place we had passed right outside Kyleakin (Caol Acain). It made for a good end to the evening.
When we arrived back at the hostel, we were both tired, and needing to get up early to return the car, we simply passed out.